Title: Fibre Labelling. Elastomultiester - DuPont.
Authors: PICCININI PaolaSENALDI Chiara
Publisher: Publications Office of the European Union
Publication Year: 2011
JRC N°: JRC66059
ISBN: 978-92-79-21056-3 (print), 978-92-79-21057-0 (PDF)
ISSN: 1018-5593 (print), 1831-9424 (online)
Other Identifiers: EUR 24929 EN
OPOCE LB-NA-24929-EN-C (print), LB-NA-24929-EN-N (PDF)
URI: http://publications.jrc.ec.europa.eu/repository/handle/JRC66059
DOI: 10.2788/58288 (print)
10.2788/58938 (PDF)
Type: EUR - Scientific and Technical Research Reports
Abstract: In December 2003, the European Commission’s Joint Research Centre (JRC) was entrusted by DG Enterprise to verify the validity and applicability of the testing methods, proposed by DuPont, for the identification, characterisation and quantification of their new fibre (elastomultiester). This is an elastic bicomponent fibre made by a combination of two different polyesters (side-by-side structure). The elastic properties are due to crimps that are formed, after heat treatment, and due to the different shrinkage of the two components. The crimp is not mechanically induced and the yarn can be used directly, as no texturing or covering before weaving is needed. Experimental results confirmed that microscopy and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) can identify both the multicomponent nature of the new fibre and its chemical composition, whereas Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR) can confirm only its chemical composition. The normal pre-treatment, described in Directive 96/73/EC, was proved to be applicable to the new bicomponent fibre and the agreed allowance value of 1.50 % was adopted for the new fibre, in agreement with the European Network of National Experts on Textile Labelling (ENNETL). The solubility properties of elastomultiester were evaluated. In particular, the chemical methods 1, 2, 4, 6 – 9, 13 and 14 of Directive 96/73/EC were tested and considered suitable for the quantification of elastomultiester in binary mixtures with other fibres. With the exception of method 14, the novel fibre was insoluble in all the mentioned methods and showed correction factors d equal to the ones of polyester (1.00 for methods 1, 2, 4, 7, 9, 13 and 1.01 for methods 6 and 8, respectively). In addition, also the manual separation method described in Directive 96/73/EC was proved to be suitable for the quantification of elastomultiester in binary mixtures with other fibres. A new quantitative method based on DSC was developed and successfully applied to the quantification of binary mixtures of elastomultiester with polyester and cotton and to ternary mixtures with polyester/cotton, polyester/viscose and modal/viscose. The method is also applicable to mixtures of elastomultiester with nylon. It led to a good repeatability and results were generally as good as the ones obtained with chemical methods. The comparison with quantification based on the manual separation method showed differences usually lower than 1 %. The method shows two important advantages, the first being the rapidity of the analysis and the second being the possibility to avoid manual separation in the quantification of mixtures polyester/elastomultiester. The JRC developed a test method to measure the recoverable stretch and the permanent deformation of yarns and single filaments based on elongation. Experiments performed on single filaments of elastomultiester showed that, at 50 % elongation, the novel fibre is intrinsically elastic and proved that the elasticity is not due to the construction of yarns and to the fact that they contain several single filaments; on the contrary single filaments are as elastic as yarns. In fact, in these conditions the per cent permanent deformations were usually lower than or equal to 10 %. Based on experimental results, discussions during the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ENNETL meetings, the name and definition agreed and proposed for the new fibre were “elastomultiester: fibre formed by interaction of two or more chemically distinct linear macromolecules in two or more distinct phases (of which none exceeds 85 % by mass) which contains ester groups as dominant functional unit (at least 85 %) and which, after suitable treatment, when stretched to one and half times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its original length”.
JRC Institute:Institute for Health and Consumer Protection

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