Assessing eco-innovations in green chemistry:Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of a cosmetic product with a bio-based ingredient

Abstract

Due to the growing interest in assessing the environmental impacts of cosmetic products, research and development activities try enhancing and promoting eco-innovation solutions in cosmetic industry. This study is aimed at comparing the environmental profile of eco-innovation options in green chemistry using Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). A case study in which synthetic ingredients are replaced by others derived from natural compounds is presented. A C16-18 triglycerides mixture (INCI name “palmitic/stearic triglycerides”) derived from olive oil industry by-products is used both as single ingredient (Innovation I) and as part of a preformulated one (Innovation II), replacing the starting formulation (Benchmark) silicone and caprylic/capric triglyceride. LCA using ILCD impact assessment has been applied to the first steps of a cosmetic supply chain in Lombardy, and a cradle-to-gate analysis performed, paying particular attention to water and energy consumption, raw materials origins and their previous manufacturing stages. In order to test the results, two sensitivity analyses were performed, changing assumptions about transports and irrigation of olive trees. A further sensitivity analysis was run using two different LCIA methods (CML and IMPACT 2002): obtained results show some significant differences, especially in eco/human toxicity impact categories